The Cold, Damp Flat in Lisbon, and Learning to Laugh About It

If you rent first, you could look at a flat in winter, not only in the bright months.

By Neil Solomon · 2 min read

Picture a couple named Diane and Frank. They have rented a charming flat in Lisbon. The light is lovely, the street is full of life, and they are happy. Then winter comes, and the flat is colder inside than they expected. There is a damp feel in the corners, and the wardrobe smells a little of it.

What people describe in stories like this is a surprise more than a disaster. Many of us picture a warm country as warm everywhere, including indoors. A home in a mild climate may not be built for the few cold weeks, and a mild outdoor day can still feel chilly in a stone building. People who tell this story often do it with a wry smile. One kind of tale ends with a rule at home, along the lines of "no whining about the cold," said half in jest.

I find that rule rather wise. It does not make the damp go away. It does give a couple a way to carry on without letting the weather turn into an argument.

Here is how I read the choice. If you rent first, you could look at a flat in winter, not only in the bright months. You could ask how it is heated and whether the walls feel cold to the hand. You could ask neighbors, or other tenants, what the January weeks are like. Those questions cost nothing and tell you a great deal.

If you already live in such a flat, small habits help. Open windows on dry mornings. Dry clothes where the damp will not settle. Use a heater in the room where you spend the evening and let the rest be cooler. Keep the wardrobe from touching the outer wall if you can.

Diane and Frank might have this exchange on a gray morning.

"My toes are cold," Frank says.

"Remember the rule."

"No whining."

"Good. Now put on the thick socks, and I will make coffee."

None of this is a reason to choose or avoid a city. It is only a reminder that comfort at home is a daily thing, and the postcard does not show it.