Arriving in George Town in the Middle of a Festival

My reading is that a festival gives a newcomer a quick lesson in how a place sees itself.

By Neil Solomon · 2 min read

Picture a couple named Edith and Raymond. They land in George Town, in Malaysia, and the taxi cannot get close to their street. There are crowds, incense, bright cloth and processions. They have arrived in the middle of a nine-emperor festival, and they know nothing about it.

I found a traveller's account of just this kind of arrival interesting. It was told with wonder, and also with a little of the lost feeling that comes with being in the middle of something that is not yours.

My reading is that a festival gives a newcomer a quick lesson in how a place sees itself. You see which things matter enough to stop a street. You see who comes out, who cooks, who carries and who watches. A month of ordinary days would not show you so much.

It can also be tiring. Streets close, shops shut, and the plans you made for a normal afternoon fall apart. A festival is a gift to the people it belongs to. To a guest, it can be a lovely surprise or a disruption, and often both on the same day.

The way a newcomer behaves seems to matter most. People who stand a little back, watch and ask questions tend to be welcomed. People who treat it only as a show to photograph can feel the distance. I do not think anyone needs to do it perfectly. Curiosity and a bit of humility go a long way.

A few things I would think about if I were planning a longer stay. First, festivals come around every year, so what feels new will become familiar. Second, joining in is not required. Some retirees from abroad take part fully, and some prefer to leave the city for a few days. Both choices seem fine to me. Third, your first festival is a good test of how comfortable you are with a place where you are the one who does not know the rules.

A short moment between them.

"I have no idea what is happening," said Edith.

"Neither do I," Raymond said. "Shall we just watch for a while?"

"Yes. And ask someone afterwards."

Asking afterwards is a good habit. Most people are glad to explain what their festival means to them, and the answer often becomes the start of a friendship.